Our niece, Sasha, is a master pumpkin carver. The witch and cauldron is from one of the giant pumpkins grown here on Pentoga Road. |
October 31, 2013 – Thursday
48 degrees/foggy/calm
Pentoga Road
It first happened while the cabin was under construction. I’d just motored
the seventeen miles back upriver from Kotzebue, an Inupiaq Eskimo village, the
hub of this Alaskan arctic region, with more building supplies.
As I stopped long enough to wipe my brow and swipe a cloud
of mosquitoes away, I turned towards the shell of the cabin sitting atop a
large hill fifty yards distant overlooking the river. Standing in an empty
window opening, was my friend and Inupiaq brother, Elmer. Ten years my senior,
Elmer is short in stature and if ever a stereotypical figure of an Eskimo could
be sculpted, it would look exactly like my friend.
Strange, I didn’t see a boat in front of his camp when I’d
motored by it earlier. I waved and whistled and hurriedly gathered an armload
of supplies before heading up the long hill towards the camp.
I found the cabin empty. It wasn’t like Elmer to come
upriver and not stay long enough for a cup of coffee and conversation. He
usually brought a surprise, a treat, and I was looking forward to tasting
something other than caribou meat or fish.
Hilltop Camp - forty miles north of the Arctic Circle |
I saw my brother the next week while in the village and
good-naturedly castigated him for his lack of social skills. He smiled and
claimed innocence. I was laughing, not believing him, when he held up one hand
and quietly said, “Ah, you saw him.”
“When I was a
boy,” Elmer continued, “my grandparents brought me upriver with them to hunt
and gather eggs. We would camp where you keep your boat. Often, we would look
up on the hill and see the old man standing, watching… as if looking for
caribou. He was from the old days when our people wore their clothes with the
fur facing in for warmth. This has always been my family’s land and he is one
of my grandfathers from ancient times.”
Elmer didn’t joke about serious matters like family lineage
and I wasn’t living in my culture. Certainly, I’d been traveling the Arctic
long enough to know that the top of the world is a magical place with it’s own set of
rules.
The Northern Lights. Look closely enough and you'll see the Big Dipper behind them. |
Though not forgotten, the thought of the old man was filed
in the back of my mind as I finished the cabin that fall. Winter came and the
sun disappeared completely.
It was one evening in January. The thermometer was
registering forty-six degrees below zero outside, but the crackling fire in the
wood stove kept the inside of my cabin at a comfortable fifty-five degrees. I
was reading when I caught a movement out of the corner of my eye.
Teaching my classes 500 miles off the road system using computer/internet via satellite powered completely by solar and wind. |
It was the old man, standing in front of the picture window,
not over ten feet away, looking out towards the river. The hair on the back of
my neck stood straight out and I caught my breath.
What to do? I spoke, softly, “Hello.”
There was no response. Of course there wouldn’t be. He was
from thousands of years ago and wouldn’t know English.
“Unnusatkun,” I whispered.
“Good evening.”
Still no response.
The old man stood for the longest time peering out the
window. At one point, he turned in my direction, but rather than look at me, he
looked through me.
“Kinauvin? What
is your name?”
Still no response.
I looked away
towards the wood stove, gently shook my head, then looked back. The old man was
fading away and within seconds, had disappeared completely.
I saw Elmer a few
days later.
“The old man was
back the other night, inside the cabin, with me.”
Elmer smiled in an
elderly way.
“You are fortunate,
brother. Appa (Grandfather) likes you. He’s protecting you.”
I grew rather fond
of the old man as the years went by. His visits were few, four or five a year.
Elmer told me that I should leave him the ultimate Inupiaq gift, that of water.
Not that long ago, other than food, water was one of the most valued Eskimo treasures
during the winter months. It required that ice or snow be melted over a small
seal oil lamp, something that often took hours.
As time went by I
got used to leaving out a shallow bowl of water each evening. Though it was
never touched, the next morning I’d dump the water and place the bowl
on a shelf only to be refilled that evening. It became a ritual.
I hadn’t seen the
old man for a long time and I missed him. The thought had just crossed my mind
when I looked up and there he was, looking out over the river, towards the
foothills of the Brooks Range.
“Unnusatkun,” I whispered.
“Good evening.”
This time he did turn and he looked at me, not through me.
I smiled. He smiled, then he turned back to resume looking
out the window only to disappear a
few moments later.
Water was poured into the bowl later that evening and put in its customary place upon the counter. I later lay in bed
thinking of the old man, the thousands of Inupiaq hunters and families that had
traveled over this hill where I’d built my cabin. I felt humbled to share this
unspoiled part of Alaska with those who’d gone before.
The next morning dawned clear and cold. I sleepily walked to
the wood stove and rekindled the fire then turned towards the counter.
The bowl. It had been moved several inches. More importantly,
it was empty.
I felt more humble than ever. To have the simple gift of
water accepted was to be accepted.
I’ve not been back to Hilltop Camp for some time, but there’s
little doubt in my mind that the old man still occasionally stands at the
window looking for caribou. The top of the world is a magical place with it’s own
set of rules.
I still wonder; was the ancient Inupiaq hunter visiting my
world, or perhaps for a few short years, did I visit his?